Погода: Такаяма, июнь

June is tsuyu here and our row shows it: 206.7mm across 16.5 precipitation days, about twelve millimetres a wet day, under 9.2 hours of sun. What regulars add is the shape of it. The rainy season is a stationary front rather than a blanket, so it does not rain everywhere in Japan at once and several consecutive wet days are possible without the whole trip being lost; the storms tend to get heavier towards the end of the season. The casualty is the view - Matsumoto Castle's top floor looks out at the Northern Alps, and cloud takes that away before it takes anything else. Inland at altitude, the days stay comfortable: 27.4C falling to 16C at night, with almost no wind. The record: humidity 77 percent, 14.6 hours of daylight and AQI 51.

Takayama's forum is consistent that November is the transition month, not full winter: by mid-month a cold wind picks up and light snow can fall, but it's the kind that melts rather than piles up on the streets, since Takayama sits in a basin rather than up in the mountains. Real snow season, posters agreed, doesn't properly start until December. Expect cold mornings warming a little by afternoon, and layer up - one traveler compared the feel to a chilly October day in the northeastern US, more brisk than bitter.

May is good weather in Takayama — 20°C by day, 10 overnight, before June's heat and rain — but it falls between the two things the town is best known for. The Sannō Festival, the spring half of the Takayama Matsuri and one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan, runs 14–15 April; the autumn festival is in October. May gets you the old town, the float exhibition hall and the Japanese Alps without either crowd. The record does show rain on fourteen days, so "before it gets wet in June" is a relative claim.