Погода: Такаяма, апрель

Matsumoto's cherry blossom runs late by Japanese standards, roughly a week behind Tokyo and Kyoto, and the forum's working window for the peak is about 5 to 13 April - with regulars adding that a stay around the 15th to the 20th is not too late and often lands close to spot on. Nothing is knowable until the March forecast, and rain or wind shortens the bloom once it starts. The castle is the picture everyone comes for; Koboyama Park is the local alternative, reachable by bike, and Takato Castle Ruin nearby runs a blossom festival across the whole of April as a fallback. Our row shows why the timing runs late here: 19.3C days but 5.4C nights, with 7.8cm of April snow still falling. The record: 14 precipitation days carrying 160.2mm and 9.3 hours of sun.

Takayama's forum is consistent that November is the transition month, not full winter: by mid-month a cold wind picks up and light snow can fall, but it's the kind that melts rather than piles up on the streets, since Takayama sits in a basin rather than up in the mountains. Real snow season, posters agreed, doesn't properly start until December. Expect cold mornings warming a little by afternoon, and layer up - one traveler compared the feel to a chilly October day in the northeastern US, more brisk than bitter.

May is good weather in Takayama — 20°C by day, 10 overnight, before June's heat and rain — but it falls between the two things the town is best known for. The Sannō Festival, the spring half of the Takayama Matsuri and one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan, runs 14–15 April; the autumn festival is in October. May gets you the old town, the float exhibition hall and the Japanese Alps without either crowd. The record does show rain on fourteen days, so "before it gets wet in June" is a relative claim.