Været i Fes (Fez) i november

November in Fes shows off the phrase regulars use for Morocco generally - a cold country with a hot sun - more sharply than the coast does. Our row's 22.5C day over an 8.8C night is the gap; one November visitor puts the nights in the low 40s Fahrenheit and damp, and describes wearing leggings, jeans, two upper layers, a fleece vest and a windbreaker and still being cold after dark. The heat goes out of the sun at around five. The other November possibility is rain, which can arrive as daily downpours in a bad year - our row's 38.5mm across 6.8 days is the average one - so a lightweight waterproof shell goes in the bag with the fleece. The record: feels-like 20C by day and 7C at night, 8.7 hours of sun and AQI 33.

Regulars are specific this month runs hotter than April or May here, though the first week brings the citywide Sacred Music Festival, when good accommodation gets harder to find and pricier, while the real peak heat of July and August still lies ahead. Our row backs that hot, genuinely dry read, 33.2C reading as a hot 33C, over 16.5C nights feeling 17C, with rain light at 14.1mm across 4.2 days and humidity at 53 percent. Regulars are consistent this inland city runs noticeably hotter than coastal Morocco, mornings and evenings the better window for walking the medina while afternoons call for shade and a slower pace. Sun protection and hydration remain the standard advice given the intensity of midday heat. The record: 12.5 hours of sun, a 13.6 kph wind and AQI 43.

Fez-forum threads on August weather don't hold back: some posters call the heat in Fes and Marrakech alike genuinely oppressive this time of year, with readings pushing toward 45C on the hottest days even though a more typical day sits somewhat below that. The standing coping strategy is the same across threads - book air-conditioned accommodation, ideally with a pool, and restructure the day: sightseeing before noon, a long lunch and nap through the worst hours, back out around 6pm. One tip repeated by regulars is that staying inside the medina's narrow, shaded alleyways runs noticeably cooler than the more open, modern parts of the city. Despite the brutal heat, a well-planned itinerary still delivers a memorable trip. The record: a blistering 38C by day feeling like 38C, 20.4C nights, essentially no precipitation at all, a dry 45 percent humidity and 12.2 hours of sun.

Morocco-forum threads on March weather single out the spring window (March through May) as the recommended stretch for Fes specifically, warm days and cool nights suited to walking the medina without the summer heat. Posters are candid that it's variable within that window - it can rain a bit, but it can also turn lovely and sunny with daytime temperatures around 20C, cold enough after dark that a fleece and long sleeves are the standing packing advice. One regional note worth knowing: the weather generally runs better in Marrakech and further south than it does in Fes at the same time of year, so don't assume Fes matches what you've read about the rest of the country. The record: 20.9C days feeling like 19C, 7.6C nights, 81mm of rain across 11.5 days and 9.8 hours of sun - genuinely changeable, cool nights guaranteed either way.

May is the last comfortable month for walking the Fes medina, and the forum's framing is comparative: generally neither too warm nor too cool, better than June, and behind April if you are also heading for the desert. The caveat regulars add is that this is an inland city in a basin and an unusual year can spike hard - a mid-May forecast of 42C has appeared on the Morocco forum, described as extreme rather than normal. The medina is the reason to be here: the oldest university in the world, the madrasas and the mosques, all of it on foot and most of it without shade. The record: 29.5C days, 13C nights, 7.4 precipitation days, humidity 58 percent and 11.9 hours of sun.