Meteo Sirmione (Lake Garda) in luglio

Regulars are specific this counts as the hottest month of the year here, some trips seeing zero rain across multiple visits while another year brought a genuinely severe hailstorm with stones reportedly the size of tennis balls at the southern end of the lake. Our row backs that hot, genuinely wet read, 29.4C reading as a hot 32C, over 20.9C nights feeling 23C, with a substantial 101.1mm of rain across 13.4 days and humidity at 67 percent. Regulars are consistent this counts as full high season, traffic backed up and parking essentially unavailable by 9am as everyone converges on the lake to escape the heat. Any thunderstorm that does hit tends to be short and sharp rather than a settled wet day. The record: 12.9 hours of sun, a 9.2 kph wind and AQI 55.

October here stays warm enough for a t-shirt by day and turns considerably cooler by evening, which our row backs at 19.1C over 12.3C. Regulars make one distinction worth repeating: the lake water runs warmer in autumn than in spring, so October swimming beats an equivalent March or April day at the same air temperature. The town itself has two faces daily - genuinely busy while the day-trippers are in, and like a different place entirely once they leave for the evening. The ferry timetable is the calendar detail that matters more than any forecast: it reduces from the 7th of the month and stops altogether in early November, and some hotels and restaurants begin closing for the season while the town is still busy by day. Rain is 110.4mm across 10.1 days. The record: humidity 78 percent, 7.6 hours of sun, an 8.4 kph wind and AQI 54.

By June the lake is usable and the town is not: Sirmione is the most popular place on Garda and is busy from May to September, with the piazza, the castle and the main streets packed through the day. Regulars point two ways out - the hours, since it all quietens at night, and the geography, since the lakeside walk between the castle and Bionde is always quiet. For swimming they name Lido delle Bionde, where a natural spring rises about a hundred metres offshore and warms the water, with a small rockpool alongside fed at 37 or 38C, and Jamaica Beach at the tip of the peninsula. June itself swings - visitors report both the high thirties and the low twenties - against our 27.4C average and 95.9mm across 11.6 days. The record: 18.8C nights, 12.9 hours of sun and AQI 59.

April at Lake Garda is a coin toss - some Easters warm and sunny, others cool and wet - and regulars point out it is statistically one of the wettest months. Our row agrees on both counts: 82.3mm across 11.2 precipitation days, with 17.8C by day over 9C at night, almost exactly the 17 and 7 they quote. Pack layers and expect cool. The practical half is the calendar. The season opens at Easter and most things are only just starting up, with the ferries on a reduced spring timetable through April and most of May. The lake itself is cold all year, which is why Sirmione's natural hot springs and the thermal baths they feed are the warm water on offer. The record: humidity 70 percent, 10.5 hours of sun and AQI 48.

May at Sirmione is warm and sunny with the odd shower in a normal year, and completely unpredictable in any given one - Whitsun has produced both 30C and bleak damp. What is reliable is the daily rhythm. Sirmione fills with day trippers through the middle of the day even in May and empties in the evening, because the number of hotel rooms caps how many people can stay - which is why regulars say the town is worth an overnight, precisely to get the early morning and the late evening without them. If that sounds like work, Bardolino is the alternative they name. Our row is wetter than the reputation: 130.6mm over 17 precipitation days. The record: 21.4C days, 13.6C nights and 10.8 hours of sun.