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Asked whether September brings the golden autumn, regulars answer no - the colour here comes about a month later, mid to late October, and September is the month summer ends rather than the month autumn looks its best. They date the official close of the season to around the 15th. What you get instead is unpredictable: an Indian summer above 25C in some years, wet and grey in others, most often warm and sunny near 20C. Our row averages 18.7C by day but reads as 17C, because the wind is a real 21.4 kph off the Baltic, and nights fall to 8.4C. Rain is 66.9mm across 11.1 days. A jacket and an umbrella whatever the forecast says. The record: humidity 78 percent, 8.6 hours of sun and AQI 37.

Jūrmala's forum is upfront that January here is a real gamble from one year to the next - some winters bring grey, mild, rainy stretches, others bury the coast under more than a meter of snow, and posters put it at roughly even odds which you'll get. What's consistent is that a fair number of cafes and restaurants stay open through winter despite the seasonal quiet, and a walk on the beach with snow and ice on the sand is its own kind of pretty. The train connection from Riga makes it an easy half-day trip even if the weather turns, so you're not committed to a full day outdoors.

Forum posters describe July water temperatures as notably warmer than earlier in summer - over 20C, enough for genuinely comfortable swimming along the shallow, wide stretch of sand. July is clearly peak season here, with posters noting that a Riga heatwave can send 'half of Latvia' to the beach on the same day, so real crowds are the trade-off for the best swimming conditions of the year. The 24km beach itself is repeatedly praised for feeling wide and open despite the crowds, with beachside restaurants and private beach clubs offering food, drinks and people-watching along the sand. A direct 30-minute train from Riga (a few euros round trip) makes it an easy day trip from the capital.