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Genoa's forum has less to say about September specifically than the months either side of it — August gets called properly hot, October and November the wettest of the year — which puts September in the gap between the two: past the summer heat, before the Ligurian autumn rains really set in.

Regulars describe this city itself as awfully warm and genuinely quiet in summer, with the hillside residential neighborhoods in particular turning near-deserted as locals head to nearby coastal towns rather than staying in the city proper. Our row backs the hot, still-humid read, 27.9C reading as a hot 32C, over 22.4C nights, with 58.6mm of rain across 11 days and humidity at 76 percent. Regulars are specific that Genoa itself has almost no beaches of its own despite being a major port city, so anyone wanting a swim is pointed toward the wider Italian Riviera rather than the city center. The sea sits at a genuinely warm 26.7C for those day trips. The record: 12.7 hours of sun, a 12.2 kph wind and AQI 56.

Early June here is not yet settled - regulars give a range from 20C to 30C and say the rain, when it comes, comes in the afternoon. Our row lands at 25.3C but reads as 29C, because this coast runs humid at 78 percent, which is the opposite arrangement to inland Italy at the same temperature. Rain is 80.9mm across 11.4 days, more than the postcard suggests. On the water they are blunt in the way this whole riviera is: the sun is warm enough to lie in and the sea at 23.8C is still cold to get into. Nights hold 20.1C. Sunshine runs 12.5 hours inside 15.5 of daylight. The record: a dew point of 17.1C and AQI 57.

Regulars call May on this coast fickle: highs around 20C, warm and pleasant enough by day, cool in the mornings and evenings, and capable of rain at any point - pack a light jacket and a raincoat. By the end of the month the rain is more a quick shower than a whole lost day. Our row is wetter than the description suggests at 131.6mm across 16.8 days, the sort of figure that makes an indoor plan worth having, and this city is what the regional boards nominate as the wet-day fallback for anyone caught out along the Riviera. The sea is 19C, for walking rather than swimming. The record: 15.1C nights, humidity 79 percent, 10.8 hours of sun and AQI 49.

April in Genoa is a sightseeing month rather than a coastal one, and regulars make two points about it. The first is that Liguria's forecasts are unusually unreliable, hemmed in as the city is between mountains and sea, so a grim week ahead often is not. The second is that it is not beach weather whatever the air does: our row puts the sea at 15.2C. The month is also wet for the Riviera, 89.3mm across 10.8 precipitation days, which is why the aquarium, the palaces of the historic centre and Boccadasse are what people actually plan around. The record: 17.9C days that feel like 17C, 11.3C nights, humidity 74 percent and 10.2 hours of sun.