Погода: Тринкомали, декабрь

Regulars are specific this counts as peak season on the east coast precisely because the southwest monsoon, running May through September, hits the south and west coasts instead, leaving conditions here calm and genuinely good for snorkeling and swimming. Our row backs that hot, genuinely dry read, 34C reading as a scorching 38C, over 25.5C nights feeling 27C, with rain light at 47.8mm across 8.7 days and humidity at 70 percent. Regulars are consistent the typical pattern is sunny days with just an odd late-afternoon or evening shower rather than a disruptive wet day, tanning, swimming, snorkeling and scuba all in their element. The sea sits at a bath-warm 28.5C. The record: 10.4 hours of sun, a 25.2 kph wind and AQI 40.

Regulars describe this coast's dry season as just beginning, with conditions turning sunnier by the day even though the sea itself hasn't fully settled - one visitor specifically notes the water here isn't yet calm this month, a genuine mismatch between improving land weather and still-rough surf. Our row backs the building heat and dryness, 33.5C reading as a hot 40C at 76 percent humidity, over 25.6C nights, with 49.2mm of rain across 10 days. Regulars call the trade for the rougher sea a genuinely quiet beach experience, with one describing miles of empty sand and good surf for those who want it rather than calm swimming. The sea holds a warm 30.1C regardless of the chop. The record: 11 hours of sun, a 16.6 kph wind and AQI 41.

July is the month Sri Lanka splits in two, and this is the good half. The south-west monsoon is working the other side of the island, so regulars send July visitors here - Trincomalee, Nilaveli, Uppuveli, Pasikuda - and the reason they give is sea state rather than sunshine: these beaches are calm and swimmable while the south coast is rough. Our row backs the dry claim at 35.8mm across 6.9 days with 10.3 hours of sun. It also names the cost of being on the dry side of a monsoon: 34.2C reading as 38C, the hottest daytime figure in this batch, over nights that only fall to 25.8C. The record: humidity 68 percent, a 25.8 kph wind, a 28.9C sea and AQI 29.

Sri Lanka's two coasts run opposite seasons and February belongs to the other one. Regulars say Trinco is out of season now, with high waves, because the rain reaches the island from the north-east in this period - so the advice is to avoid the eastern shore, Trincomalee, Pasikudah and Arugam Bay, and take the south-west instead. Our row's 69mm across 10.5 days looks mild on paper, but the sea state rather than the rainfall is the issue. Whales follow the same split: Mirissa's blue whale season runs December to April while Trincomalee's is March to August, when the strike rate here passes eighty percent. Come in July, not February. The record: 29.7C over 24.7C reading as 34C, humidity 77 percent, a 27.2C sea and AQI 57.