Погода: Марсель, декабрь

Saint-Tropez-forum threads on Christmas-time weather describe a town almost unrecognizable from its summer self: population dropping to a small fraction of the tens of thousands who fill it in high season, and posters are candid that a real share of shops and restaurants simply close for the winter rather than staying open at reduced hours. Sunshine isn't guaranteed, but genuine clear, crisp stretches are entirely possible mixed in with the grey ones, temperatures mild enough for a coastal walk even on a cloudy afternoon. More than one poster recommends basing a winter trip in nearby Nice instead, where restaurants and holiday activity stay running at full strength, treating Saint-Tropez as a quiet day trip. The near-empty harbor and old town is called an almost eerie experience compared to summer's crush. The record: 14.1C days feeling like 12C, 5.9C nights, 75mm across 7.4 days, 1.3cm of rare snowfall, a 16.1C sea, 77 percent humidity and 6.3 hours of sun.

Regulars are specific that the mistral, a strong local wind, can churn cold water up from the depths and leave the sea noticeably colder than the air temperature would suggest, even on an otherwise warm, sunny day. Our row backs the mild, still-swimmable read, 21.3C over 14.4C nights, with 75.4mm of rain across 5.9 days - regulars agree most Octobers stay dry and pleasant, with the real heavy rain typically holding off until November. Regulars are consistent that evenings and nights can turn genuinely cold even after a warm afternoon, so a proper layer for after dark is standard advice rather than optional. The sea itself still sits at a swimmable 21C on a normal day. The record: humidity 76 percent, 8.7 hours of sun, a 19.3 kph wind and AQI 48.

Regulars are specific about the trade this month's signature wind brings: when the mistral blows, it delivers brilliant, mist-free blue skies and excellent visibility, but the wind itself is cold and gusty and can persist for several days straight. Our row backs a mild but breezy read, 18.2C over 10.6C nights, with 43.5mm of rain across 5.9 days and a real 21.2 kph wind - regulars put the odds of a pleasant trip well above 90 percent, with the mistral or a bout of heavy rain as the two realistic ways it can go wrong instead. The sea is still cool at 14.5C, not yet a swimming option most visitors would choose. The record: humidity 69 percent, 10.9 hours of sun and AQI 53.

June here is lovely, regulars say, wind permitting - and the wind is not a figure of speech. The calanques close when the mistral blows from the north-north-west, and they are clear that you would not want the coastal paths on a mistral day anyway. From summer onwards the trails can also shut at short notice for fire risk, so the habit is to check the access line that morning or the evening before rather than to set out and find out. The heat is not yet the problem it becomes in mid-July, though noon to three is still worth avoiding. Our row: 26.6C over 18.9C, 23.3mm across 3.6 days, a 19.8 kph wind and a 22.7C sea.

September is the month Marseille regulars name as the year's best - warm without the blistering heat of August, with genuinely clement evenings - and our row's 25.1C over 17.8C is that. Two things unsettle it. The middle of the month can bring heavy thunderstorms, which is where most of the 56.4mm across 4.4 days lands. And the mistral can blow up at any time: what they call a mini-mistral in September is a sustained northerly lasting 24 to 36 hours that turns a mild day bitter, and blows hard enough that eating outside stops being possible - glasses off the table, food off the plate. It passes. The record: 4.4 precipitation days, humidity 70 percent, 10.6 hours of sun and a 22.7C sea.