Погода: Халонг, январь

January here is not cold by the numbers and is cold to be in. Regulars describe grey, overcast, damp weeks with a drizzle so fine it barely wets your clothes, and the line worth carrying is that 15C feels nearer 10C because of the humidity - our row reads 20.8C by day and 15.4C at night at 77 percent, with only 4.2 hours of sun a day, the least of this city's year. Rain totals 57.5mm across 9.6 days, almost all of it that drizzle. Pack layers rather than a coat. Tet moves with the lunar calendar and often falls in late January, when the city empties and much of it closes - check the year. The record: AQI 111.

Regulars are specific this counts as the winter-to-spring transition in the north, cold and foggy without being as harsh as deep winter, the pattern genuinely alternating - cold air brings grey skies and light rain, and once it eases the sun and warmth return just as quickly. Our row backs that mild, genuinely dry read, 20.6C over 15.8C nights, with rain light at 28.4mm across 5.8 days and a notably hazy AQI of 90. Regulars are consistent morning and late-afternoon mist is a real, common feature that can hurt visibility and photos on the water, water activities themselves genuinely limited this early, with March regarded as the truly ideal month by comparison. The sea sits at a cool 18.7C. The record: only 5.8 hours of sun, humidity 80 percent and a 14.6 kph wind.

October is regularly called a good month here, and the reasoning is specific: by late September and into October, typhoon activity has generally shifted several hundred kilometres south toward central Vietnam, so cruise cancellations are less frequent than the calendar-only view of typhoon season suggests. Regulars still say to check an operator's refund policy before booking, since an infrequent storm can still reach this far north. Our row backs a genuinely pleasant month, neither cold nor hot - 27.7C reading as 31C over 23C nights - though it carries real rain, 147mm across 14 days, heavier than the board's cheerful summary implies. The sea holds a warm 28.7C. The record: humidity 77 percent, 8.4 hours of sun, a 16.1 kph wind and AQI 75.

Asked about March, regulars answer that nobody knows - one year brought mist, fog and 15C, the next 25C and the best sunshine of the trip, and it can change day to day. What they do agree on is the shape of a day: the fog sits in the early morning and is generally gone by about half past seven, so the cruise is still worth taking. Swimming is out, kayaking is fine. Several argue the mist is the point, the limestone going in and out of cloud and the bay the more mysterious for it. Our row is milder than the cold they describe, at 23.9C over 18.9C with 39.2mm across 10.1 days, but it agrees on the light: 6.6 hours of sun. The record: humidity 83 percent, a 22.7C sea and AQI 92, worth knowing about.

Regulars put late December on the bay at 10 to 14C, cloudy and windy with the odd shower, and warn that a cold snap can reach 5C. Our row's 21.1C over 16.2C is the whole month averaged, so read it as the early weeks being far milder than the last ones - northern Vietnam's winter arrives through December rather than on the 1st. Mist is the defining feature: low visibility on many mornings, often lifting late morning, and regulars argue it is a feature rather than a fault, giving the karst a mystery no other season offers. December is still one of the busiest months. Do not plan on kayaking or swimming; pack warm layers and a raincoat. The record: 18.7mm across 4.1 days, 6.8 hours of sun, a 21.5C sea and AQI 82.