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October is the month for the mountains behind this town, and the reason is a closing date rather than a peak. Kamikochi is at its best in October for the leaves, but after the first week of November it turns cold, it can snow, and most places up there shut for the season - so a trip built around the valley has to be inside October, not adjacent to it. The town itself is mild at 20.4C, though the nights drop to 9.6C, a gap of eleven degrees to dress for in a single day. Rain is the part the board does not raise and our row does: 205.1mm across 16.4 days, with sunshine down to 7.3 hours. The record: humidity 80 percent, an 8.8 kph wind and AQI 33.

Takayama's forum is consistent that November is the transition month, not full winter: by mid-month a cold wind picks up and light snow can fall, but it's the kind that melts rather than piles up on the streets, since Takayama sits in a basin rather than up in the mountains. Real snow season, posters agreed, doesn't properly start until December. Expect cold mornings warming a little by afternoon, and layer up - one traveler compared the feel to a chilly October day in the northeastern US, more brisk than bitter.

May is good weather in Takayama — 20°C by day, 10 overnight, before June's heat and rain — but it falls between the two things the town is best known for. The Sannō Festival, the spring half of the Takayama Matsuri and one of the three most beautiful festivals in Japan, runs 14–15 April; the autumn festival is in October. May gets you the old town, the float exhibition hall and the Japanese Alps without either crowd. The record does show rain on fourteen days, so "before it gets wet in June" is a relative claim.