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Late July is the best chance of good weather here, and the St John's forum still refuses to promise any: the standing line is that if you do not like it, wait, and posters say it is not unusual to get sun, rain, hail, sleet and snow in one day. Fog is the local specialty - the city averages 124 fog days a year, June's blanket capelin fogs being the worst of it, and they thin out after mid-July. That timing cuts the other way for icebergs: the season is May to June, so arriving mid-July makes sightings slim. Packing advice is shorts and short sleeves plus, always with you, long trousers, a fleece, a rain shell, a warm hat and gloves. The record: 22.8C days, 11.9C nights, 10 precipitation days, 84 percent humidity, an 11.4C sea.

Regulars are direct that this is the rainiest month of the year here, occasionally worsened by the remnants of a hurricane or tropical storm pushing in extra rain, and specifically recommend the first ten days as the sweet spot before it turns cooler and the odds of snow climb. Our row backs that cool, genuinely wet read, 13.1C over 4.1C nights feeling 0C, with 84.2mm of rain across 9.8 days and a trace of early snow, 0.1cm. Regulars are consistent the city itself stays fully in swing for visitors even as some seasonal attractions wind down, Signal Hill's visitor center specifically closing around the 10th of the month. The sea sits at a cold 9.4C. The record: humidity 80 percent, 5.6 hours of sun, a 26.1 kph wind and AQI 34.

May here is rain, wind and fog, and regulars say the variation is the real story: one day near freezing, the next 15C. Our row averages 11.7C but reads as 8C, with nights at 1.4C feeling like -3C in a 25 kph wind, 73.7mm across 11.6 days, and 2.1cm still sitting in the snow column. A hooded coat, because the rain and sleet here travel sideways, and a sweater underneath it. Icebergs are why many people come and nobody on the board will promise them: they drift on currents and pack ice, they turn up any time from March into July, and mid to late May is a good bet rather than a safe one. Dress for the boat - the sea is 1.5C. The record: humidity 80 percent, 8.6 hours of sun and AQI 35.

September is one of the better months for weather here and the worst trade you can make for wildlife. The fog thins - this city averages 124 fog days a year, but they are far fewer after mid-July - and the coast clears. The icebergs, though, run March to about July, so late September offers little or no chance of one, and the puffins and whales are thinning too, with the humpbacks starting their move to calving grounds. Our row gives 18.3C days over 8.7C nights that feel like 6C, a 25.3 kph wind and a 12.9C sea. The record: 90.9mm across 10.2 days, 7.3 hours of sun and AQI 36.

June in St John's has a local name for its fog - capelin weather - blanket fog that can sit for days, and regulars are honest that it is the month's one real drawback in a month that is not warm to begin with. Our row gives 17.9C by day feeling like 16C, 7.1C at night, and a 4.5C sea. After mid-July it is less common. The trade they offer in exchange is the reason to come at all: the same capelin run brings the whales, and June is prime iceberg season, though the bergs that reach St John's, Bay Bulls and Ferryland have melted small by the time they get this far south. Mid-June averages nearer 18C by day and 12 at night. The record: 11.2 precipitation days carrying 81.4mm, humidity 84 percent and a 23.8 kph wind.