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Regulars are consistent this month can genuinely do anything weather-wise, drizzly and grey one visit, beautiful warm sunshine the next, with no reliable way to know in advance which version a trip will get. Our row backs that mild, genuinely wet read, 13.1C over 7.2C nights feeling 4C, with 46.9mm of rain across 10.4 days and a trace of very late snow, 0.5cm. Regulars are specific this is genuinely the nicest time to see the Beguinage, its daffodils in bloom, and that crowds stay noticeably lighter than the summer peak despite the unpredictable forecast. Layers, a raincoat and boots remain the standard packing advice regardless of what the sky looks like on arrival. The record: humidity 74 percent, 10.6 hours of sun, a 22.4 kph wind and AQI 42.

Ask about May here and regulars answer with two Mays: one year it is 25C and sunny, the next it rains most of the month and never passes 15C. Our row sits between them and nearer the cautious end - 16.3C reading as 14C in a 21.6 kph wind off the coast, nights at 11C, and 51.1mm of rain across 9.9 days. That argues for a hooded waterproof rather than an umbrella you have to hold in the wind. The other May warning is the calendar: the Procession of the Holy Blood is held on Ascension Day, which usually falls in this month, and the town fills completely for it, so check the year and book early or come a week either side. The record: humidity 75 percent, 11.8 hours of sun and AQI 48.

September is quieter than July but the crowd here is not a seasonal thing so much as a daily one. Coach groups come through from the Zeebrugge cruise berths, weekends bring Belgians in to shop, and a national monuments weekend in the middle of the month adds locals to the visitors. What regulars keep coming back to is the evening: the day trippers leave, the buildings are lit, and the centre becomes a different town to walk. So the advice is to stay the night rather than to pick a week. Our row gives 19.9C days over 14.1C nights and 64.4mm across 10.3 days. The record: humidity 76 percent, 9.3 hours of sun, a 21.7 kph wind and AQI 44.

June in Bruges is unpredictable weather and predictable crowds. Regulars put the month anywhere from 12C to 28C, dry or very wet, and tell people to bring long sleeves, a coat and an umbrella regardless; our row's 20C reading as 19C with 9.7 precipitation days is the middling version. The crowd pattern is the useful part, because it runs on a timetable rather than a season: coaches, many of them from cruise ships, drop hundreds of people near Minnewater and give them about six hours, and the city transforms once the day-trippers have gone in the evening. Step a few streets off the obvious route and you are out of it even at midday. The record: 14.4C nights, 56.9mm of rain, 12.3 hours of sun and a 16.5-hour day.